Blogs

Explore our perspectives on bespoke tailoring, from fabric selection to the final fitting, and discover what makes a truly unique suit.

Spalla Camicia – The Relaxed Italian Shoulder and the Signature of Maison De Suits

In the world of bespoke tailoring, meticulous construction and rigid structure are not always the definitive answer to style. At times, it is refined simplicity that resonates most deeply and reveals the true character of the wearer. Spalla Camicia, also known as the “shirt shoulder,” is a perfect testament to this philosophy—a hallmark of soft-shoulder tailoring characteristic of Italian style, and one of the distinctive signatures of Maison De Suits.

What is Spalla Camicia?
In Italian, Spalla Camicia literally means “shirt shoulder.” The term originates from a soft-shoulder tailoring technique that uses little to no padding, allowing the shoulder to follow the natural curvature of the body—much like the construction of a fine dress shirt. There is no heavy lining, no restrictive framework—only softness, flexibility, and absolute comfort.

This technique is especially prevalent in Southern Italy, where the warm climate calls for garments that are lightweight, breathable, and effortlessly elegant.

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Why is Spalla Camicia so captivating?

  • Natural as the wearer – Rather than forcing the shoulders into a rigid form, the shirt shoulder enhances the body’s natural silhouette, creating an air of ease and approachability.
  • Ideal for casual blazers and suits – When paired with fabrics such as linen, cotton, or lightweight wool, Spalla Camicia delivers a relaxed yet sophisticated look.
  • Softens bold patterns – Whether it’s checks, windowpane, or vibrant colors, the gentle structure of the shoulder brings balance and subtlety to the overall ensemble.
  • Exceptional comfort – Minimizing padding and material in the shoulder results in a lighter, more breathable garment—perfect for humid climates like Vietnam.

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A technique that demands masterful craftsmanship
Do not let its “effortless” appearance deceive you—Spalla Camicia is one of the most challenging techniques in bespoke tailoring. The tailor must precisely control the curve of the shoulder, aligning each stitch so that the sleeve head and shoulder seam meet seamlessly, yet remain soft to the touch.

At Maison De Suits, every Spalla Camicia jacket is crafted entirely by hand by artisans with years of experience. This is not merely the making of a suit—it is the creation of a shoulder structure so comfortable that you almost forget it is there.

Versatile in use, timeless in style
Spalla Camicia is not reserved solely for casual occasions. A blazer with a shirt shoulder can be styled with dress trousers and a tie for a look of understated formality, or paired with a polo shirt and jeans for elevated streetwear. In every context, it retains the essence of eleganza rilassata—elegance in a state of ease.

The Maison De Suits hallmark
For us, Spalla Camicia is not simply a technical detail—it is a statement of style: softness does not diminish sophistication; on the contrary, it amplifies confidence and individual character.

If you seek a summer blazer or suit that is as cool in wear as it is rich in Italian nonchalance, let Maison De Suits create your Spalla Camicia—where fine tailoring meets natural poise.

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Aug 12, 2025

Why Grooms Should Opt for a Tailor-Made Suit for Their Wedding Day

A wedding is one of the most momentous occasions in life. On such an important day, every moment becomes a cherished memory. And what makes a memory truly beautiful is when both the bride and the groom are given the care and attention they deserve. It is the day when all eyes are drawn to the bride—whose wedding gown, hairstyle, makeup, and even the smallest accessories have been meticulously prepared. Yet, amidst this perfection, it would be a notable shortcoming if the groom did not possess an equally refined appearance.

A bespoke suit not only enhances the groom’s elegance but also contributes to an overall harmony in every photograph and every step taken together down the aisle.

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When selecting wedding attire, many grooms deliberate between commissioning a tailor-made suit or opting for a quicker solution such as buying off-the-rack or renting. Ready-made or rental suits offer the advantages of convenience and lower cost, particularly when preparation time is short. However, these garments are generally made to standardized industrial patterns, which rarely align perfectly with an individual’s physique. Issues such as tight shoulders, excessively long sleeves, overly short jackets, or loose waists are common.

By contrast, a bespoke suit is crafted precisely to the groom’s measurements and specific body shape. Every cut and fold is carefully considered to flatter the figure, lending a taller, leaner, and more dignified appearance. Beyond achieving a perfect fit, bespoke tailoring offers complete personalization—from the choice of fabric, lapel style, and stitching color, to the lining and accompanying accessories—each detail reflecting the wearer’s personal style and character. For this reason, despite requiring more time to complete, a bespoke suit delivers a fuller, more rewarding experience and stands as a worthy investment for such a significant occasion as a wedding.

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At Maison De Suits, we recognize that not every groom is familiar with suits or knows where to begin. Our advisory team has guided hundreds of grooms, understanding the nuances of different body types and wedding styles. From the very first step—listening to your wishes and defining your personal style—to selecting the appropriate fabric, colors, and silhouettes that complement your physique, the wedding venue, and even the bride’s gown, we accompany you throughout the process.

The average tailoring period ranges from three to four weeks, following a clear and flexible process: initial measurement, first fitting, adjustments, and final completion. In addition to the suit itself, we provide comprehensive consultation on accessories such as ties, pocket squares, shoes, and boutonnieres, ensuring a polished and harmonious ensemble.

A small tip: If you are marrying during peak wedding season, do not wait until the last moment to place your order. Schedule your first fitting at least five to six weeks before the wedding to allow ample time for careful selection and precise adjustments—because a truly exceptional suit requires not only skilled craftsmanship but also the right amount of time to “mature” to perfection.

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At Maison De Suits, we do more than simply create a garment—we prepare you to present your most worthy self for a once-in-a-lifetime moment, so that when you look back, you will know: you were truly the very best version of yourself on that unforgettable day.

Aug 12, 2025

Solbiati: The Fabric House Synonymous with Fine Linen

Today, linen is one of the most beloved fabrics in the world. Frequently found in garments such as shirts, blazers, and trousers, it conveys a relaxed and casual style. Connoisseurs often choose linen as a highlight for occasions and events held in spring or summer. Even the wrinkles in linen have come to symbolize elegance, status, and affluence.

However, the rustic and pleasant impression we associate with linen today is the result of a relatively recent fashion revolution. While now it is rare to find a linen suit that is not in a light pastel shade, before Solbiati placed linen firmly on the fashion map, it was nearly impossible to find it in colors beyond beige, navy, or royal blue. From a modest family business founded in 1874, Solbiati has grown into the world’s premier supplier of linen, forever changing the way we perceive and use this fabric.

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History
When Michele Solbiati founded his namesake company in 1874, it primarily produced the popular textiles of the era—cotton, velvet, and satin—fabrics favored by Europe’s upper classes. Initially, the company operated on a small scale, serving a local clientele in Italy.

It was not until the outbreak of the First World War, when Michele’s three sons—Enea, Carlo, and Leopoldo—took over, that Solbiati began its transformation into the prestigious textile manufacturer it is today. The brothers resolved to make Solbiati an international weaving mill, exporting products worldwide.

As the war intensified, many businesses could not survive the harsh conditions. Yet these challenges enabled Solbiati to endure. With demand for military uniforms and equipment surging, Italy turned to Solbiati—by then an internationally recognized name—to meet its needs. This collaboration with the Italian military helped the company thrive during one of history’s darkest periods.

The Linen Revolution
Originally, linen products were coarse and stiff. Before the 1960s, linen was used almost exclusively for tablecloths and household items, being far too rough for apparel.

At that time, the fashion industry was awash in synthetic fabrics, and public attention was directed elsewhere. However, when the fourth generation of the family, Vittorio Solbiati, made the bold decision to shift the company’s focus from rayon and other synthetic textiles to linen, it reignited the fashion world’s interest in natural, authentic materials, and reinforced traditional craftsmanship.

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Softness & Brilliance
In just fifty years, Solbiati transformed the role of linen in fashion. They introduced new weaving techniques that rendered linen softer and more pliable. The use of tiring methods and special washes gave rise to the renowned “linen crepe,” whose elegant wrinkles and graceful drape on the wearer marked an entirely new form of luxury.

Soon, fashion houses worldwide embraced this revolutionary change. New colors were introduced, along with dyes that created vibrant palettes, including the “cloud sky” tone that would become emblematic of linen style.

Solbiati’s business rapidly expanded, continually refining linen to ensure the highest quality. Innovative techniques demonstrated the company’s remarkable creativity and secured its place in fashion history.

Solbiati Today: The World’s No.1 Linen Brand
Today, Solbiati is an irreplaceable name in the realm of fine linen. As proof of its prestige, luxury conglomerate LVMH—world leader in high-end goods—has recently acquired Solbiati to secure control over the world’s foremost linen supply. Their innovations have defined the modern perception of linen: its softness, luminous colors, and natural fit to the human form. Wrinkles, once seen as flaws, have become hallmarks of wealth and style.

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Through a fusion of creativity, culture, and excellence, Solbiati has not only changed how we view linen but also redefined how we experience fashion. In the world of fine linen, Solbiati has been, is, and will remain the undisputed leader.

Aug 12, 2025

Linen – The King of Summer

When speaking of summer, one cannot overlook linen—a fabric often hailed as the “king of summer” for its breathability and unrivaled comfort. Beyond the realm of casual shirts, a well-tailored linen suit offers a refreshing sartorial option not to be missed.

The Distinctive Qualities of Linen
Linen boasts exceptional air permeability, providing a cooling sensation even on sweltering days. Nevertheless, under Vietnam’s intense summer heat, wearing a full linen suit can still pose a challenge. Despite this, its subtle volume and unique drape make linen a “golden material” for crafting distinctive and eye-catching suits.

Although prone to creasing, the natural wrinkles of linen lend it a particular charm, exuding a relaxed and casual sophistication. To offset this characteristic, it is advisable to make jacket sleeves and trouser hems slightly longer, anticipating potential shrinkage during wear.

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From Flax Plant to Linen Fiber
Linen is woven from the fibers of the flax plant—a species that can grow up to one meter tall and is notably more durable than its close relative, cotton. The transformation from plant to fabric is a meticulous artisanal process. Once harvested, flax stems undergo retting, a method of soaking to separate fibers from the woody stalk. This process relies heavily on weather conditions, often timed with the first seasonal rains following harvest. In some years, the rains arrive within days; in others, the wait may last for months.

Initially, linen products were coarse, suitable only for tablecloths and household textiles. Until the 1960s, linen was not considered an ideal fashion fabric due to the stiffness of its fibers.

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The Renaissance of Linen in Fashion
Linen’s revival began when Vittorio Solbiati—the fourth generation of the Solbiati family—shifted production from synthetic fabrics such as rayon to linen. This bold move reignited interest in natural and artisanal materials. Since then, linen has become a symbol of elegance and a testament to the enduring value of authenticity in fashion.

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Choosing Linen for Summer
A linen suit not only ensures comfort but also reflects refined taste and personal style. For those seeking the perfect summer ensemble, this fabric is a worthy choice. Whatever the cut or design, linen promises both visual distinction and all-day comfort.

Aug 12, 2025

Tweed – A History and Enduring Appeal

When one hears the word tweed, it often conjures images of classic suits, robust overcoats, and the refined elegance synonymous with British style. Yet, few are aware that this fabric carries with it a rich and inspiring narrative—one that begins in the rugged landscapes of Scotland and ascends to the status of a symbol in high fashion.

Origins in the Scottish Highlands
Tweed was originally handwoven in the Scottish Highlands during the 18th century by skilled artisans. It was crafted from coarse, durable wool designed to shield the wearer from the region’s harsh weather—cold winds, persistent drizzle, and biting chill. Its distinctive patterns, such as herringbone and houndstooth, were not merely decorative; they represented ingenuity in color blending using natural dyes.

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The Etymology of “Tweed”
The term “tweed” is believed to have originated from a fortuitous misunderstanding. Its linguistic root is “twill,” referring to a diagonal weaving technique. However, in the early 19th century, a London merchant misread the term as “tweed,” likely associating it with the River Tweed flowing along the Scotland–England border. The name was deemed fitting for the fabric and, over time, became a hallmark of its identity.

From Utility to Haute Couture
Initially, tweed was favored by the working class and gentlemen hunters for its resilience and functionality. By the late 19th century, however, it had gained favor among the British aristocracy, particularly within the royal family. Princess Alexandra, and later Princess Diana, frequently donned tweed, elevating it to a symbol of refinement.

Throughout the 20th century, tweed continued its conquest of luxury fashion. Esteemed maisons such as Chanel and Ralph Lauren incorporated tweed into their collections, producing garments that were both opulent and innovative while retaining the fabric’s classic charm.

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The Timeless Allure of Tweed
Today, tweed is no longer confined to winter wear; it appears in modern designs ranging from coats and dresses to accessories. Its seamless fusion of tradition and contemporary style has secured its position as an emblem of timeless fashion.

From the cold, wind-swept hills of Scotland to the glittering runways of Paris, tweed stands as a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of sartorial craft. To wear tweed is not only to embrace warmth but also to carry a centuries-old narrative of style and heritage.

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If you're looking for a sophisticated tweed suit, visit Maison De Suits, where craftsmanship comes together to create designs that are uniquely yours.

Aug 12, 2025
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    Maison De Suits – The leading bespoke tailoring house in Hanoi with over 30 years of experience in high-end tailoring. We take pride in crafting exquisite suits with meticulous attention to detail, using premium fabrics from renowned textile manufacturers worldwide. Maison De Suits is committed to perfection in every stitch, honoring the style and individuality of each customer.

    No. 111, Nguyen Ngoc Doan, Dong Da, Hanoi
    9 AM - 7 PM Daily
    0906-235-325
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